Stick Welder Settings Chart for Common Electrodes

Updated Oct 7, 2026· 7 min read

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Use the electrode diameter and type to choose a starting amperage, then fine-tune for joint fit-up, material thickness, position, and the particular rod manufacturer’s data; the chart below provides practical starting points for common stick-welding jobs.

What we cover
  1. Stick Welder Settings Chart
  2. How Electrode Diameter Changes the Setting
  3. Polarity and Arc Length
  4. Adjustments for Welding Position
  5. Choosing Settings by Situation
  6. A Practical Setup and Adjustment Sequence
  7. Consumable Storage and Welder Ownership
  8. Related Guides

Stick Welder Settings Chart

Amperage ranges are approximate DC settings for clean, mild-steel joints. The correct value can vary with electrode formulation, machine calibration, joint design, electrode storage, and whether you are welding flat, horizontal, vertical, or overhead. Always treat the package label or manufacturer data sheet as the final authority.

Electrode Diameter Starting amperage Typical polarity Practical material thickness Best uses
E6010 1/8 in (3.2 mm) 75–125 A DCEP 3/16–1/2 in (5–13 mm) Deep penetration, root passes, pipe-style work
E6011 3/32 in (2.5 mm) 40–85 A AC or DCEP 1/8–1/4 in (3–6 mm) Repair work, rusty steel, limited-power AC machines
E6011 1/8 in (3.2 mm) 75–125 A AC or DCEP 3/16–1/2 in (5–13 mm) General repair and open-root joints
E6013 3/32 in (2.5 mm) 60–90 A AC, DCEN, or DCEP 1/8–1/4 in (3–6 mm) Light fabrication and clean sheet or plate
E6013 1/8 in (3.2 mm) 90–130 A AC, DCEN, or DCEP 3/16–3/8 in (5–10 mm) Smooth beads and general-purpose welding
E7018 3/32 in (2.5 mm) 70–110 A DCEP, sometimes AC 1/8–1/4 in (3–6 mm) Strong structural fillets and low-hydrogen work
E7018 1/8 in (3.2 mm) 90–140 A DCEP, sometimes AC 3/16–1/2 in (5–13 mm) Structural joints and thicker mild steel
E7024 1/8 in (3.2 mm) 110–150 A AC or DCEP 1/4 in (6 mm) and thicker Fast, high-deposition flat and horizontal fillets
E308L-16 stainless 1/8 in (3.2 mm) 75–110 A AC or DCEP 1/8–1/4 in (3–6 mm) 304-series stainless steel repairs and fabrication

For example, a 1/8-inch E7018 rod is a sensible starting point around 105–120 amps for a flat fillet on 1/4-inch mild steel. If the bead is narrow and tall, increase amperage in 5–10 amp steps. If the puddle becomes excessively fluid, the edges undercut, or the workpiece overheats, reduce amperage or move faster.

How Electrode Diameter Changes the Setting

Diameter largely determines how much current an electrode can carry and how much metal it deposits. A small rod is easier to control on thin material, while a larger rod welds faster but needs more current and a machine with sufficient output.

  • 3/32 inch: Usually the best choice for 1/8- to 1/4-inch steel, small machines, tack repairs, and positional welding.
  • 1/8 inch: The most versatile size for general fabrication, commonly used from roughly 3/16 to 1/2 inch with suitable joint preparation.
  • 5/32 inch: Often operated around 130–190 amps, depending on electrode type; useful for heavier plate and long, flat passes.
  • 3/16 inch: Commonly requires approximately 180–240 amps and is mainly suited to thick material, prepared joints, and powerful welders.

Do not select a rod only because the steel is thick. Joint access, root gap, welding position, available amperage, and the number of passes matter just as much. Multiple passes with 3/32- or 1/8-inch electrodes are often easier to control than one oversized rod.

Polarity and Arc Length

DCEP, also called electrode-positive or reverse polarity, generally gives strong penetration and is commonly specified for E6010, E6011, and E7018. DCEN, or electrode-negative, can reduce penetration and heat into the workpiece, which may help with thin material when the electrode allows it. AC is useful where the power source has no DC output or where an electrode is designed for AC operation.

Polarity is not interchangeable for every rod. E6010 normally requires DCEP, while E6011 is formulated to run on AC or DCEP. E7018 versions may be rated for DCEP and AC, but AC-compatible 7018 electrodes are not automatically suitable for every low-OCV transformer machine.

Keep the arc short—roughly equal to the diameter of the bare electrode core, and often slightly shorter with E7018. A long arc produces spatter, porosity, an unstable puddle, and undercut. A very short arc can cause the rod to stick, extinguish, or trap slag. With E6010 and E6011, use a tight, controlled arc and the rod manufacturer’s recommended whip or drag technique. With E7018, use a short arc and a controlled drag without excessive whipping.

Adjustments for Welding Position

Flat and horizontal

Start near the middle or upper half of the chart range. Gravity helps support the puddle, so a slightly higher current can improve fusion and deposition. E7024 is particularly productive here, but it is a poor choice for vertical or overhead work.

Vertical-up

Reduce amperage approximately 10–15 percent from a comfortable flat-position setting. For instance, an E7018 running at 120 amps flat may behave better around 100–110 amps vertically. Use a smaller rod when possible, maintain a short arc, and pause briefly at each side of the joint so the edges fuse without allowing the center to sag.

Vertical-down

Vertical-down welding can work for thin material and some E6010 or E6011 procedures, but it provides less penetration than vertical-up welding. Use only when the electrode and joint specification permit it. Move quickly enough to keep the puddle small, and do not use this technique as a shortcut on load-bearing joints.

Overhead

Begin about 10–15 percent below the flat setting, choose a smaller diameter where practical, and keep the puddle compact. E7018 can be used overhead with appropriate technique, while E7024 generally should not be used in this position.

Choosing Settings by Situation

Situation Recommended starting choice Why
Beginner with a small inverter 3/32-inch E6013 at 65–80 A Easy arc control and moderate deposition on clean steel
Rusty outdoor repair with AC only 3/32- or 1/8-inch E6011 AC compatibility and a forceful arc tolerate less-than-perfect surfaces
Thin 1/8-inch steel 3/32-inch E6013 at 60–75 A Less heat and a smaller puddle reduce burn-through risk
1/4-inch structural mild steel 1/8-inch E7018 at 100–125 A Good strength potential and practical multi-pass capacity
Fast flat fillets on heavy plate 1/8-inch E7024 at 120–145 A High deposition, but only in suitable positions

A Practical Setup and Adjustment Sequence

  1. Identify the base metal. Remove paint, oil, rust, galvanizing, and mill scale from the weld zone. Contamination changes arc behavior and can create dangerous fumes.
  2. Choose the smallest suitable electrode. Match its diameter to the thickness and position rather than trying to maximize deposition.
  3. Confirm polarity. Check the electrode package and connect the holder and work lead accordingly.
  4. Set the middle of the recommended range. Strike an arc on scrap of the same thickness and observe the puddle, bead profile, and penetration.
  5. Change only one variable at a time. Adjust amperage in 5–10 amp increments, or change travel speed and arc length before changing electrode diameter.
  6. Clean between passes. Chip and wire-brush all slag before depositing the next bead. Trapped slag can look like a finished weld while weakening the joint.

A simple diagnostic rule helps: excessive sticking usually means the amperage is too low, the arc is too short, or the work is poorly grounded. Excessive spatter often indicates too much current, an overly long arc, incorrect polarity, damp electrodes, or an unstable hand position. Undercut points to excessive current, excessive travel speed, or holding the arc too long at the edge.

Consumable Storage and Welder Ownership

E6010, E6011, and E6013 are generally more forgiving of ordinary shop storage, but electrodes should still be kept dry and in their original package. Low-hydrogen E7018 is more sensitive to moisture. Damp 7018 can produce porosity, unstable arcs, and increased hydrogen-related cracking risk in susceptible joints. Follow the package instructions for storage, rebaking, and exposure time rather than relying on a universal oven temperature.

The parts that commonly wear first are the electrode holder jaws, work clamp contact surfaces, welding leads, and power-source cooling fan or vents. Inspect for loose connections, cracked insulation, overheated plugs, and obstructed airflow. Clean the work clamp and the steel contact area before troubleshooting the machine. Never weld on sealed containers, unknown coatings, or galvanized material without appropriate controls and ventilation.

The chart is a starting reference, not a substitute for a qualified welding procedure. For pressure vessels, lifting equipment, structural work, vehicle frames, or any joint whose failure could injure someone, use the applicable code, approved consumables, and qualified welding guidance.

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