What's inside
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What makes a good stick welding glove
Stick welding is harder on gloves than MIG or TIG work. The electrode holder, hot rod stubs, slag, and freshly welded steel all add heat. A good glove must protect against radiant heat and brief contact with hot metal without becoming so bulky that you lose control of the holder.
For most stick welding, start with a full-grain or split cowhide 14-inch leather welding glove. The longer gauntlet covers the wrist and part of the forearm, which matters when welding overhead or reaching around a joint. A short glove can leave a gap where sparks and slag land directly on skin.
There is no single temperature number that makes a glove “heatproof.” Leather gloves are designed for limited exposure, not for holding red-hot metal. Heat resistance depends on leather thickness, lining, moisture, contact time, and whether the heat is conducted through a tool or arrives as radiation. Treat any glove as protection against incidental heat, not permission to grab hot workpieces.
Best glove materials for stick welding
| Material or construction | Strengths | Weaknesses | Best use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Split cowhide | Thick, inexpensive, good abrasion and spark resistance | Stiff; seams and fingers can wear faster | General stick welding and fabrication |
| Grain cowhide | Smoother, more durable surface and better flex than many split gloves | Usually costs more; can still be bulky | Frequent welding and mixed shop work |
| Deerskin | Soft and flexible with good feel | Less resistant to severe abrasion and rough slag | Lower-heat work where dexterity matters |
| Goatskin | Excellent dexterity and seam feel | Not the first choice for heavy stick heat and abuse | TIG or occasional light-duty welding |
| Kevlar-stitched leather | Seams tolerate heat better than ordinary thread | Does not make the leather itself fireproof | High-use gloves and demanding fabrication |
Split cowhide is usually the sensible value choice. It is thick enough for common 6011, 6013, and 7018 work and cheap enough to replace when the palm becomes glazed or the fingertips wear through. Grain leather is worth considering if you weld several times a week and want a glove that flexes and lasts better.
Features that matter most
Length: A 14-inch cuff is a practical minimum for stick welding. Choose a 16-inch or longer long-cuff stick welding glove for overhead work, pipe welding, or large electrodes that produce substantial slag. The cuff should overlap the jacket sleeve rather than sit underneath it.
Backing and palm thickness: Reinforced palms and thumb saddles help when gripping an electrode holder for long periods. A second layer over the palm is useful, but excessive padding makes it difficult to position the rod or operate a spring-type holder. Look for reinforcement where the electrode holder contacts the hand, not just decorative patches on the back.
Stitching: Kevlar thread is a useful durability feature, especially near the fingers and cuff opening. Check the inside of the glove for rough, loose, or exposed seams. A seam that rubs your knuckle can become a real problem during a long weld, even if the outer leather looks intact.
Lining: A cotton or flame-resistant lining improves comfort and makes it easier to remove a sweaty glove. Avoid loose lining that bunches in the fingertips. Unlined gloves can offer better feel, but they conduct heat to the hand faster and become uncomfortable sooner in heavy work.
Fit: Fingers should reach the ends without pressing hard against them. Extra fingertip space reduces control and can let the glove catch on the electrode holder. Do not buy a glove so tight that you cannot fully close your hand; leather stiffens when dirty, wet, or heat-dried.
Choose gloves by welding task
For bench welding with short beads, standard split-cowhide gauntlets are usually enough. The cheaper option is fine when you weld only occasionally, work in a dry shop, and are willing to replace gloves at the first sign of a thin palm or damaged seam. Buying two inexpensive pairs can be more practical than buying one premium pair and wearing it past its safe service life.
For overhead or vertical stick welding, prioritize cuff length and a substantial back-of-hand layer. Slag can roll into the cuff, so pair the gloves with a properly closed leather jacket or sleeves. Keep the glove opening outside the sleeve when the work position allows it, preventing sparks from traveling down your arm.
For high-amperage welding and large electrodes, consider heavy-duty Kevlar-stitched leather welding gloves. They generally trade dexterity for thicker palm protection. That trade is worthwhile when the holder and workpiece become uncomfortable after a few seconds, but it is not an excuse to handle hot steel directly.
If you switch between stick and TIG, do not expect one glove to do both jobs well. Stick gloves emphasize heat and abrasion resistance; TIG gloves emphasize fingertip control. A separate pair of thinner TIG gloves is the better choice for precise torch and filler-rod work.
When to replace welding gloves
Replace a glove when the palm is visibly thin, the fingertips are hard and shiny from heat, or a seam has opened. A pinhole that lets you feel heat is already a failure, even if the rest of the glove looks usable. Also replace gloves contaminated with oil, solvents, or other flammable liquids; leather that has absorbed chemicals should not be trusted around sparks.
Never cool overheated gloves with water and immediately put them back on. Wet leather transfers heat more readily and can shrink as it dries. Let gloves cool naturally, keep a spare pair nearby, and inspect both hands before starting another rod. A glove protects only while it remains dry, intact, correctly fitted, and matched to the task.